But by moving the slider in the center and flipping the orientation, you quickly go from a manual-braking to assisted-braking device—the options include manual-braking or assisted-braking lead and toprope belay, guide-mode top belay, and manual-braking or assisted-braking rappel. El principio se consigue haciendo que la cuerda recorra doblando y fregando contra mosquetones y el dispositivo Asegurador-Descensor. Fabric/Material: Stainless Steel, Weight: 2.3, Application: Multi-Pitch Routes, Sport Climbing, Belay Type: Manual Catch, Climbing Hardware Type: Belay & Rappel, Rope Capacity: 7.8 - 10.5 mm, BUY Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device. The Mega Jul is versatile and robust belay/rappel device. … It's also very carabiner dependent, and we noticed a 35% difference between the best and worst biners we tried—the Petzl Attache performed the best and is what we used in the official test. Although we like this feature in theory, in practice it requires that you engage your shoulder and can exhaust those muscles during long descents. This is a light, compact belay device that offers assisted braking functions at a fraction of the price of the competition. Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability. Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. During a long multi-pitch route you can expect to waste significantly more energy using this device to belay off of an anchor than with any other device, including a simple Munter hitch. It feels identical to rappelling with my Pivot. Switch it around into assisted braking mode, and you will have to apply upward pressure on the green thumb loop for rope to feed through. Edelrid also makes a passive single-slot model called the Jul2 and an active assisted locking device called the Edelrid Eddy. El asegurador / descensor más versátil de Edelrid. You can rappel with the Mega Jul in various ways. High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner For belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling Rope can be p Edelrid Jul 2 Belay Kit. Edelrid Mega Jul | $29.95 edelrid.de.com ★★★★. The Mega Jul is affordable, costing about $35. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, The jack of all trades in belay devices, yet master of none. Hace años que lo utilizamos en Mercedario Outdoors y solo hemos tenido satisfacciones. The Mega Jul is very affordable for a belay device with auto-block and assisted braking modes. This variation of this type of device strikes one of the best balances between function, ease-of-use, and lightweight for many types of all around climbers. The configuration differs for belaying one climber vs. two, so use caution to make sure you have it set up properly. Note that this configuration is a bit tricky, and it is crucial that you read the manual carefully. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. For a product at this weight and price, there is nothing that gives you better piece of mind on a belay or rappel. Edelrid Micro Jul Belay Device. At 2.5 ounces, the Mega Jul is lightest of the assisted braking options and only 0.3 oz heavier than the lightest auto-block belay device. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. En este artículo nos centramos en los Aseguradores-Descensores utilizados para Escalada, Vía Ferrata o Descenso de Barranco Secos. I used the Mega Jul in a climbing self-rescue course and it was excellent. The Mega Jul for belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls Skip to the beginning of the images gallery, For belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for rappelling. Some concerns have been raised that the Mega Jul, being stainless steel (chosen to avoid the wearing-to-an-edge issues that affect alloy belay … Overall, I feel the Mega Jul is more pernickety to use at first than a Reverso, ATC Guide or similar, but once mastered it has a number of abilities that those other devices lack. On the bright side, the Mega Jul does better with skinny twin and half ropes, so if you're mostly using those you might not notice the friction as much. Size-wise it's also very svelte, with the main tube assembly among the smallest of all. The Mega Jul Belay Kit with our Mega Jul belay device and the HMS Strike FG Carabiner. The Mega Jul is a versatile device that provides passive assisted braking, double strand rappelling, and it has auto-block capabilities (though you'll hurt your elbows using it in that mode). During rappels face the green thumb loop away from you and the Mega Jul claims a unique ability to auto-lock. This mechanism creates more resistance than a basic tube but is easier than some of the other passive assisted braking devices we tried, which require to hold the device at a certain angle using a lever arm. Most of the Mega Jul's flaws have been improved upon with the newer release, so that is the one we would sooner recommend. The Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. Good braking performance, yet you can pay out rope fast to keep up with the leader by holding the device open with your thumb. Check great and honest reviews! Edelrid Gigs Jul belay device to abseil and rappel. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. It's assisted braking ability, however, requires you to apply upward pressure on the green thumb loop to keep the device from locking up while paying out rope. 8a). For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. Solo pesa 65g y es ideal como placa principal o como backup de otro descensor por su reducido peso. All of these devices have the built-in feature of locking up on a rappel when the climber isn’t actually releasing them to initiate the descent. JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. The performance of the Mega Jul is highly dependent on the carabiner used. Here's the text from the manual: "8. For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser. ... As a standard tube, the Giga Jul can rappel with single and twin ropes smoother, and you can clip the Giga Jul to anchors for a more-secure top rope belay on multi-pitches. EDELRID Jul 2 Belay Device 4.8 out of 5 stars 85 $35.95 $ 35. 1-800-953-5499 (US and Canada) It's just not as smooth or as strong. The Edelrid Mega Jul was our favorite for skinny twin or half ropes. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. I bought a mega jul a few days ago and after a few uses I love it. Securing a top rope climber from a fixed point (e. g. a station): One or two top rope climbers may be secured independently (be sure not to confuse the ropes!). It had the greatest resistance by far under the parameters of our test. This website requires cookies to provide all of its features. With my limited use over the past few days, it would seem to me that an autobloc backup for the rappel … Edelrid Belay & Rappel Devices Find Your Park ; Road Trip ... Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Kit. Lastly, it does take practice to smoothly lead belay using a Mega Jul. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. Furthermore, the Mega Jul's friction in auto-block mode was horrific. Getting this correct is a bit tricky. For rappel, I use the Giga Jul in non-assisted-braking mode with an autoblock. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. In spite of its small size, the Mega Jul is a very versatile device. This assistance is stronger in most applications than a classic tube but not as powerful as the active assisted braking devices in our review. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. Not much. The most versatile ever belay device. The most versatile belay/rappel device from Edelrid. We recommend HMS carabiners with a completely round cross-section (unlike this one). Giga Jul Mega Jul Sport Mega Jul Micro Jul JUL² Guide Mode Additional Eyelet Single Rope Belay Twin/Half Rope Belay Rope Diameter 7.1 – 10.0 mm 7.9 – 11.0 mm 7.8 – 10.5 mm 6.9 – 8.0 mm 8.9 –11.0 mm Weight 100 g 88 g 65 g 62 g 105 g 00. Out of all the assisted-braking belay devices and carabiners, Edelrid's Mega Jul Belay Kit is probably the most practical option for multi-pitches and alpine approaches, especially if there are rappels involved. The above diagram is from the Edelrid Mega Jul manual (downloaded 2/1/2016), describing how to belay a second climber from an anchor. $39.95. - Suitable for securing the … GearLab is reader-supported. The rappel is quite smooth, not at all jumpy like some assisted brake units can be and definitely smoother than the Mega Jul. How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing, Auto-block (resistance belaying a second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. The Mega Jul loaded for lead belay or toprope belay. For belaying a leader or bringing up … It is the precursor to the Edelrid Giga Jul, which outperforms it in nearly every way, except for price and weight. Fabric/Material: Stainless Steel, Weight: 2.3, Application: Multi-Pitch Routes, Sport Climbing, Belay Type: Manual Catch, Climbing Hardware Type: Belay & Rappel, Rope Capacity: 7.8 - 10.5 mm, We also believe the stainless steel construction improves its durability, further enhancing the value. 8d) instead of attaching it to the rear of the device only as when securing with two ropes (8b/e)." Search our entire catalog with a simple click! The Mega Jul can also function in auto-block mode to bring up one or two seconds on multi-pitch climbs. Super lightweight, assisted braking, guide mode belay option, Stainless Steel vs Aluminum construction, and very affordable pricing make this thing a winner. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially … The Edelrid Mega July is a belaying descending device made of stainless steel investment castings for a long life. becoming increasingly common, is to rappel on a GriGri or one of the new locking (yet non-mechanized) devices such as a Mammut Smart or the Edelrid Mega Jul. The Edelrid Mega Jul comes as close to being a do-it-all, one-stop-shop no-drop belay/rappel device as any I’ve ever seen. It is way, way easier to move the rope through a Giga Jul than through a Mega Jul on the anchor, and slightly harder with a Giga Jul than with a Grigri 2. Although the Mega Jul works fine belaying and lowering a climber on ropes with a diameter of 7.8, you will find the friction (or lack thereof) to be a bit rough on your hands while rappelling. Its modified tube design provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest. We were initially impressed with the promise of the Edelrid Mega Jul. The Mega Jul set up in our tests of belaying a second climber from an anchor (Auto-Block). It provides a very effective assisted braking function while lead belaying, can be used in guide mode to belay one or two seconds (with an autoblock function that locks up automatically in the event they weight the rope,) and can be used to rappel in either an assisted … A modified tube-style belay device, the Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. To accept cookies from this site, please click the Allow button below. Mega Jul Sport rappel Just got a Mega Jul sport belay device and am curious if any one uses it on a regular basis to belay/rappel. Todos los dispositivos funciona con fricción, para conseguir que frene las caídas o que el rápel sea controlado. We found this to work in our testing, but it is not without downside. In standard mode, with the green loop facing towards you, it operates like any other tube. Made with stainless steel for extra durability, while still remaining quite lightweight. Got feedback? The Edelrid Mega July Sport is the sports version of the award-winning mega Juls, with optimized for sport climbing geometry for friendly backup even in thick ropes. The Mega Jul for belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling; High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls; Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner; Suitable for 7.8 - … Easily belay either While many others have complained about paying out slack or lowering, I found neither to be a problem. Configuration allows belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds. The Mega Jul is designed for ropes between 7.8 and 10.5 mm in diameter. Edelrid Eddy Belay Device. The Mega Jul is Edelrid's most versatile belay and rappel device, made of solid stainless steel for durability. Ultimately though, the performance of the passive braking assistance is a significant compromise from active assisted locking devices. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Most assisted-braking devices only allow one strand of the climbing rope, and out of the rest this Mega Jul is one of the lightest and most compact. A real win as it eliminates the need for a personal prussic as a back-up, providing … The Mega Jul… Versatile, award-winning belay/rappel device. Its wire attachment loop is on the large side, but how important is that really? 541-485-4007 (International) If you use (and rappel with) half or twin ropes frequently that are 8mm or under, you will be happier using the Micro Jul over the Mega Jul. Mega Jul Belay Kit and other great Edelrid climbing gear for trad, sport, alpine, and mountaineering at BackcountryGear.com Mega Jul and other great Edelrid climbing gear for trad, sport, alpine, and mountaineering at BackcountryGear.com Edelrid Mega Jul | Belay and Rappel Devices | BackcountryGear.com JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. Weighing in at 2.3 oz, it's also light and affordable. Edelrid’s new Giga Jul looks deceptively like your standard two-tube device. The Edelrid Mega Jul rigged for a top rope or lead belay. Check out the Video tab to see the Mega Jul in action! … Just be sure to employ a backup prusik knot when not using it with the thumb hook facing away from you. Lo recomendamos ampliamente. The device clamps down on the rope to assist with braking, and feeds very smoothly when belaying a leader. The Mega Jul has a learning curve, as with any other belay device, but after a few times belaying on it, most folks are proficient. Feeding rope in this position requires upward pressure on the thumb loop that can quickly fatigue your arm/shoulder. Feeding slack with the Mega Jul is a similar motion to any tube device. Its smaller cousin is the Edelrid Micro Jul for skinny twin and half ropes from 6.9 to 8.0 mm. Field test review of the new Edelrid Mega Jul belay device, a serious contender for a “semi-auto” device. BUY Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Please consult your Edelrid manual and follow the instructions carefully, as their recommendations may have changed. How can we improve GearLab? Overall: It does what my Pivot does (belaying … Compared to pretty much every other passive assist braking device, our testers found the Mega Jul's catch to be more confidence inspiring and stronger at locking off when a climber is already hanging on the rope. For more information on what data is contained in the cookies, please see our Privacy Policy page. Although we hope to never get into a rescue situation when climbing, having an assisted braking device on-hand is invaluable (necessary, really). At 2.3 oz the Edelrid Mega Jul is the fourth lightest belay device tested and the lightest assisted braking device. The Giga Jul was released in the spring of 2019, and is designed as the successor to the Edelrid Mega Jul.While the Mega Jul introduced several cool and unique features, the fact is that most people don't enjoy using it because it is too small and therefore has way too much friction from the rope unavoidably built into its use, … Depending on how you orient the Mega Jul it can operate as a standard or assisted locking device while rappelling. Like other plaquette devices, this is done by clipping the ear to the anchor and loading … Robust stainless steel construction. All trademarks property of their respective owners EDELRID Mega Jul Belay Device 4.6 out of 5 stars 152 $39.95 $ 39. The Mega Jul from Edelrid is considered a "passive" assisted braking belay device. 95. Live Help Chat with an Outdoor Expert, Sign up for backcountrygear.com news, sales & deals. A clever slot in the side of the tube body causes the rope to tightly pinch between the device and belay carabiner to provide extra braking strength. Find all your Belay & Rappel Devices on US-Parks.com. - … Edelrid Sport Climbing including Belay & Rappel Devices by Edelrid. Edelrid Mega Jul. Attention: The brake karabiner must be attached to the securing devices on the side opposite to the wire bracket and must directly contact it (Fig. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Lightweight, small, great value, strong braking assistance, Terrible auto-block friction, rappelling/lowering can be hard on the shoulders. When securing a top rope climber with a single rope, the carabiner must be attached to the rope loop and through the device (Fig. $70.95. [Photo] Andrew Councell. In this configuration it will provide some braking assistance but feeding rope will require an upward tug on the green thumb loop. The most versatile ever belay device. You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. Let us know! In addition to the brake-assist ("thumb mode") using the thumb hook, the Mega Jul can also be oriented in auto-block or "guide mode" for belaying climbers from above. The most sensible way to belay two followers at once is with an auto-blocking tube style device. We're intrigued by the future potential of passive assisted braking devices but aren't yet willing to recommend this one over the competition we saw. $68.95. The biggest problem we have with the Mega Jul is the friction it creates in auto-block mode. Cease this pressure and the Mega Jul is designed to lock, making it easier to clean gear or undo tangles during a rappel. The newest member of the family is the Giga Jul, which we think is among the very best options for multi-pitch climbing, and corrects much of the friction-related issues of this device. The securing device must be attached at the fixed point by means of the attachment (Fig. 8b/8c). 95-$49.00 $ 49. Edelrid Mega Jul Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability. The rope slings are fed through the rope slots and are then attached to a second karabiner (brake karabiner).